In 1971, Keith Richards chose a legendary villa in Villefranche-sur-Mer as the recording location for *Exile on Main St.* Half a century later, this chapter in rock history still resonates.
That was 55 years ago. The Rolling Stones decided to cross the Channel and seek refuge in the South of France—escaping British tax pressures as much as they were in search of a new creative spark.
While Mick Jagger was charmed by the hillside village of Biot, and Bill Wyman and Mick Taylor by Cap d’Antibes and Saint-Paul-de-Vence, Keith Richards set his sights on one of the Riviera’s most legendary estates, recently renovated by architect Joseph Karam: Villa Nellcote.
A legendary villa on the Côte d’Azur
It was in 1899 that the banker Eugène Thomas had Château Amicitia built in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Designed in a pure neoclassical style, the property was built overlooking the sea, nestled within a hectare of lush vegetation, just above the bay of Villefranche.
With its four-meter-high ceilings, imposing marble columns, moldings, and gilded details, this property stands out as one of the most incredible examples of Belle Époque architecture on the French Riviera. And as if to further cement its legendary status, it was one of the Titanic survivors, Samuel Goldenberg, who renamed it Nellcote in honor of his wife, Nella.
An exceptional location, a lavish interior, and a garden bursting with Mediterranean flora: enough to win over the guitarist of the world’s biggest rock band. However, it was something else entirely that prompted Keith Richards to settle there. The property has a unique feature that had already caught the Gestapo’s attention during the Occupation: an impressive underground network of cellars and tunnels. The guitarist immediately saw endless acoustic possibilities there for recording the follow-up to the already cult-classic *Sticky Fingers*.
“If you woke up feeling completely wiped out in the morning, a stroll through this sparkling castle was all it took to perk you right up.”
Keith Richards, Life, autobiography (2010)
Keith Richards: a season in Villefranche-sur-Mer
So it was in the basement of one of the most luxurious properties on the French Riviera that the Stones set up their entire studio setup, from the spring of 1971 through the summer of 1972. For over a year, Villa Nellcote lived to the rock-and-roll rhythm of its illustrious residents: wild parties, excesses of every kind, and all-night recording sessions where the cream of the global entertainment industry gathered.
The result was the only double studio album the band ever released: the brilliant *Exile on Main Street*. An offbeat, eclectic, raw album that perfectly captures the rock, soul, and bluesy sound and spirit of the Stones at that time. A must-see.
Fifty-five years after those legendary sessions, the album continues to influence generations of musicians, and Villa Nellcote remains one of the most popular pilgrimage sites for rock fans visiting the Riviera. The property, which remains privately owned, is open to the public on very rare occasions, such as during Heritage Days or local cultural events.
A living heritage
Today, Villa Nellcote ranks among the most beautiful villas that have shaped the history of the French Riviera. But more than most, his name also shines brightly among the legendary venues that have helped shape the history of rock. A light shaped by the Mediterranean sun.
— “Shine a light,” they said. —
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